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Author Topic: Update on my project 2: F40 Build, LM style, 4.9 cadi  (Read 14976 times)
Don
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« Reply #15 on: November 24, 2007, 11:16:26 AM »

Mike;

If you are going to use that wide of a rim and offset, you may need to use the upper and lower control arms.  For whatever reason, I did not catch on the the width of the rim.

I attached a couple simple pics of the rear suspension on my custom frame using C5 suspnsion that have Corvette front and rear rims on them.

I can send you more details photos if you require.  You might not be able to get the strut to work with those dimensions.

Cheers
Don
« Last Edit: November 24, 2007, 11:23:30 AM by Don » Logged
F40 LM
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« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2007, 03:03:29 PM »

Don,

That is exactly my concern.  With a 19 x 12 inch rim with a 59mm pos off-set the coilovers I have built will not reach the knuckle without a large spacer as well to move the rim lip away from the coil-over.  I really need to get the rear sat down on the car and see/measure where the body edge will be and go from there.  At this time I am hoping that by moving the coil-over out four inches while stretching the control arm etc out four inches the rim will mate with the rotor with the adition of a three inch spacer.  Will post more picts when I do that.  How much stress within the geometry of the rear suspension is the toe in arm under?

Thank you for all this info Don and Dave.  Don if its not alot of trouble please zap me more picts please.  Let me know and I'll pm you my email.


michael
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« Reply #16 on: November 24, 2007, 03:03:29 PM »

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F40 LM
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« Reply #17 on: November 25, 2007, 05:36:47 AM »

For those of you that care it looks as though these vehicles all use the same knuckle upright that is in question:

1984-1989 CENTURY 115mm wheel BC
1990-1992 CENTURY
1984-1989 CELEBRITY 115mm wheel BC
1984-1985 6000 115mm wheel BC
1986-1987 6000 115mm wheel BC, w/o ABS
1990-1991 LUMINA VAN
1983-1987 CIERA 115mm wheel BC
1988-1989 CIERA SW
1988-1989 CIERA exc. SW; 115mm wheel BC
1990-1992 CIERA
1990-1991 SILHOUETTE
1990-1991 TRANS SPORT
1983 CENTURY 115mm wheel BC
1983 CELEBRITY 115mm wheel BC
1990 CELEBRITY
1983 6000 115mm wheel BC
1988 6000 115mm wheel BC, w/o ABS
1989 6000 115mm wheel BC, w/o ABS
1990 6000 w/o ABS
1991 6000

At least the company selling a set on Ebay claims it is a direct swap for these vehicles.

Thanks for the extra picts Dave.  So what are you planning to build when Funnywheels sells?HuhHuh  Um....I think you should take on an Enzo so the rest of us can hold onto your coat tails for one heck of a build.LOL

michael
« Last Edit: November 25, 2007, 03:21:43 PM by FunnyWheels » Logged
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« Reply #18 on: November 25, 2007, 06:17:54 AM »

Dave,

Thanks for the email.  Where did you get these extensions from or did you fab them from old strut pieces??

michael
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Don
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« Reply #19 on: November 25, 2007, 11:57:13 AM »

Dave had those welded by Held I think. 

I made a similar set but out to 1/4" plate and spacers to make sure everything matched up on each side.  They are not hard to make.  Mine moved the strut over about 2" if I remember correctly.  With your tire widths, you might have a spacer setup that is way too long.  If you make that strut spacer too long, you will be putting A LOT of twisting force on the strut.

A quick drawing of what I did on my spacers. Dave's are similar but the portion that goes into the struts mounting plates is solid and I used tubing spacers instead.

PS:  I'll send more pics to your email address.  I have lots.  I have to shrink them down from the 2 meg size they are now though.  I'll get to that tonight.

Good luck
Don
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #20 on: November 25, 2007, 03:26:57 PM »

Don has a pretty good memory. I had Lee Waldmiller build me a set of these so my fat rims would not hit the strut spring. I think the parts cost $110. US. Wihich would be about $35 Canadian these days. You will need to do this with the rims you are using. I also used a +3 anti bump steer from Held Motorsports. I moved the top of the shock out 3 inches and back 3 inches. The back 3 inches was to make the wheelbase the same as a 355 Ferrari.

Dave

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Daleford
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« Reply #21 on: November 25, 2007, 06:40:12 PM »

-"the parts cost $110. US. Wihich would be about $35 Canadian these days"-
-------LMAO   Grin Grin ------
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« Reply #22 on: December 16, 2007, 05:28:05 PM »

Am doing some prep work for the body installation while I am reengineering my rear suspension.  The Archie build video recommends welding or glassing these holes over aft of the side glass to prevent wind noise while driving.
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« Reply #23 on: December 16, 2007, 05:34:04 PM »

Am trying to decide how the do the triangle 'glass' section on the build most folks just painted over it black.
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« Reply #24 on: December 16, 2007, 05:37:07 PM »

While others I have picts of paint it black and then place a piece of plexiglass over it to give it a glass appearance.

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« Reply #25 on: December 16, 2007, 05:45:27 PM »

What I am planning on doing is cutting a triangle section out.  Reinforcing it from the back and make a plexiglass window to go behind it.  Will probably put some carbon fiber mat on the pillar section below that then will be visable through the 'window I am making.  Though some have removed a large section of the pillar with alot of modification I don't think I will go that route.

Any suggestions or ideas will be apprciated guys.

michael

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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #26 on: December 29, 2007, 07:18:53 PM »

bump
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F40 LM
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« Reply #27 on: January 04, 2008, 11:12:53 AM »

Still was not happy with thte way the valve covers looked. I have restripped them and will be working on getting them in better shape this weekend.  Funny how the colder it gets the more jobs one seems to find that can be done inside. Smiley

michael
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« Reply #28 on: January 06, 2008, 07:44:33 PM »

Archie also recommends in his build video to cut off and level the little square piece that sticks out just rear of the doors.  So I have cut those off.  My body kit was not made by archie but they seem to be about the same in every way.
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F40 LM
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« Reply #29 on: January 06, 2008, 07:59:05 PM »

Have tried to make some measurements this weekend.  Looks like moving the coil overs three inches outboard shouldn't be a problem.  I currently have the entire rear suspension turn apart and am gathering the parts to rebuild it using Dave's method.  I will also be using a extension plate system like Don to give me another two inches on the connection of the coil over to the top of the knuckle.  And will also be extending the control arm 5 inches.  The rear wheels are going to be 12inches wide with a 59mm (2.32") off-set
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