While at Daytona this year (Check out "So who is going to Daytona") I looked at several convertible top header attachments.  I think we have a winner with a top part produced by Mike Vetter. that uses a Caviler Header and a fiberglass insert Mike designed to have an intergraded top into the header like the OEM 355.  I plan to use a header similar to this one and fabricate the balance of my top myself.  I want to use a hard seal along the side window glass.

Today was the day.  My son Bronson and went to the wrecking yard looking for tops for our Spyder project.  We decided on a Mercury Capri, 93 vintage.  


Our decision was made on the fact we could modify the top to suit our needs.  The GM Sunbird header is just too fat looking across the header. The Capri has a light weight frame and header bar.  The header however is 1 3/4 inches too narrow on each side to properly fit the Fiero across the top of the windshield. We can split it in the center and weld in a section to possibly suit our needs.  The clamping devise is lightweight like an old VW Rabbit. 



The frame along the windows is 7 1/2 inches to long but can be modified to remove the section at the joint above the window by cutting 3 3/4 inches from each side of the frame and re-welding it back together.  The top bows are in the same situation but a small pipe made as a tube extension will work there.  The key is in keeping the two parts symmetrical so it will fold properly.  The mounting bracket that bolts to the side of the Fiero behind the door next to the seat might attach with very little modification.  We will have to build a hinge along the trailing side of the window about half way op the glass so the frame will lay properly in the “V” where the top goes when the top is down on the car.  The header will face upward behind the seats when finished.

I welded the heck out of my car to put in a frame "X" brace under it, knee at the rear of the car attached to a frame under the doors and I still get a little firewall sag with all four wheels on the ground.  Has anyone put any flat plates into the cockpit to keep the "B" pillar from flexing?  

Dave,
When you get a moment, can you send me the details on what you have done for both the convertable top and also to move the winshield.  No rush on this but as you know I am going with Johns kit with the ferrari style windshield.

After extensive bracing, I still can't get all of the flex out of the car.  When I jack it up the door gap opens about 1/4 inch and binds the door.  I spoke to a few people who built Corson kits on a Fiero chassis.  I have an "X" frame, side rails, shock tower bracing, firewall reinforcement, and cockpit triangulation.  Everything is tight with the exception of the top of the Fiero chassis “B” pillar where the top was removed is beefed up.  

The Corson builders told me that to prevent the cut off portion of the Fiero from swelling out like a football when the weight of the car is on the chassis (all 4 wheels on the ground it has to be capped off with a piece of steel and welded solid.

Has anyone ever experienced this challenge?  

And have you actually corrected it?

Dave

This brace worked.  It is welded to the "X" brace, the side of the door "B" pillar, the rear of the fire wall, the dog leg support and the top rear frame over the rear wheel.  No more door sag.  A little panel and carpet and the brace will become part of the interior.  I need the carpet of this will become a butt buster ever time we get into the car.

Dave


Now on to the top and related fabrication.

Don:

That is some welcome news.  I am cutting up my Capri top as we speak.  I could use some ideas on the sides over the windows.  I want to put a hinge in the center of the side window on the top and one on the trailing edge of the window so I can get it to fold up partially behind the seats.  Also thought of using your power top ideas with the seat motor.

Dave