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skd4re
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« Reply #15 on: February 16, 2003, 12:02:39 PM » |
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Yes the X brace is installed, but it precludes removal of the Fuel Tank, I was thinking of the boxes, tied into the already installed cage, then adding Mapics braces...and tying the strut towers together. I diagonal center section braces, dropping from my roll bar. I am considering this, as my goal is ZERO chassis deflection (maybe impossible...but I want to get as close as possible) Also, I want to be able to drop the tank if necessary, as with the X brace....it has to come off...the whole sag issue frightens me...so does the flex, you can only bend metal so many times before...SNAP.
What do you guys think? How is the plan?
Steve
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2003, 04:29:54 PM » |
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The front fenders are open like a Mirage kit. I will make a fender well to keep things in good shape. The rear 1/4 door jam has a panel that will fill the void. I wanted to finish my rear-mounted radiators before I attached the vent panel to the car. I have lots of little things to complete before I do that part.
Dave
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« Last Edit: March 03, 2007, 10:37:43 AM by FunnyWheels »
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« Reply #16 on: February 16, 2003, 04:29:54 PM » |
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Amida
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« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2003, 09:03:17 AM » |
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Mapics:
Are the door jam panels included in Watson's kit or did you have to solve that on your own?
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #18 on: February 20, 2003, 08:51:22 PM » |
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In the Air-Dynamics kit the returns are included. I cut mine out for installation of rear-mounted radiators. In addition, I have OEM Challenge door scoops (lower door half) and had to cut apart the Watson stuff to make the doors work. I also shortened the Fiero door 1 1/4 inches.
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #19 on: March 06, 2003, 08:00:30 PM » |
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I have finally located a header and top rails that can be slightly modified to fit the 355 Replica I am building. I selected a Mercury Capri including the windshield portion and as I go through the build out, I will post the details. If there is a side chance this frame can be duplicated, I will make sure all of the documentation is posted as well.
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MADMIKE
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« Reply #20 on: March 06, 2003, 09:52:16 PM » |
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TOLD YA IT SHOULD WORK!!Thats why i already had the two in stock.
MIKE
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #21 on: March 09, 2003, 04:50:47 PM » |
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I will keep you posted on the progress.
I just got a new box of cigars to get the job underway.
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« Last Edit: March 03, 2007, 10:38:54 AM by FunnyWheels »
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #22 on: March 17, 2003, 07:46:30 PM » |
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For those of you who have built a Spyder, I am wondering how you built a well in the "V" where the top folds down into the fender. How deep should it be? My thoughts are to use the lug welded on the Fiero chassis as a mounting point to help hold the rear clip in place. I am thinking of building a glass tub the shape of the "V", bonding it to the rear 1/4 then drilling a hold in it to bolt and stabilize the well area.
Any thoughts on this topic?
Dave
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MADMIKE
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« Reply #23 on: March 17, 2003, 08:37:52 PM » |
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DAVE, i have the conv top well from my ck-3 kit,i'll take a picture tomorrow and post it,so you can tell me if that's what you need for your kit,finally got the new shop up and running this weekend,had to put in a new electrical panel with more amps,for my 2 compressors.
MIKE
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MADMIKE
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« Reply #24 on: March 17, 2003, 08:41:58 PM » |
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DAVE, does your kit have the raised v area with the bottom in it that also tapers all the way to the rear spoiler like my ck-3,
i'll take a few pictures of my upper fenders also.
MIKE
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #25 on: March 18, 2003, 06:48:43 AM » |
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Mike:
The rear 1/4 is a direct copy of an OEM Ferrari. I have the Ferrari hump that runs from the lip of the rear spoiler to the top. I guess it goes up about 2 inches.
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« Last Edit: July 24, 2006, 08:52:28 AM by FunnyWheels »
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Amida
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« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2003, 07:04:34 AM » |
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I had that same Idea. Why not just mould a modified Avenger window frame? I have yet to get the glass but how well do the Avenger windshield edges line up with the Fiero window frame, very close? How much more thick/narrow do you thing the uprights will look? I think it was a 246 replica that I saw in the past that had a very thick window upright that made it look more like a toy.
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MADMIKE
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« Reply #27 on: March 18, 2003, 09:16:43 AM » |
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DAVE,you cut a coupe to make your conv,the raised area and top mounting v is totally different on a spyder,the ck-3 spyder i have was pulled from a real spyder,becouse it matches the rear upper of the real 355 the owner of a resteraunt i eat at owns,he lets me measure and fondle it.
MIKE
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MADMIKE
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« Reply #28 on: March 18, 2003, 09:22:48 AM » |
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DAVE,i was just going to call you before i headed to the shop,i thought i wrote your number down when we talked,i've got john's,but don't see yours in my scribbly notes.
MIKE
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FunnyWheels
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« Reply #29 on: March 18, 2003, 11:46:50 AM » |
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DAVE,you cut a coupe to make your conv,the raised area and top mounting v is totally different on a spyder,the ck-3 spyder i have was pulled from a real spyder,becouse it matches the rear upper of the real 355 the owner of a resteraunt i eat at owns,he lets me measure and fondle it.
MIKE
Mike: This part is not from a Berlinetta, it is an OEM 355 Ferrari Spyder 1/4 panel. My neighbor has the real deal and it is identical to his. |
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