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Author Topic: Building Fender/rear body supports for my replica  (Read 971 times)
AdminAri
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« on: October 04, 2002, 02:24:01 PM »

Well, im back home for the weekend getting my car all organized to have it shipped up to school.

We've spoke about this before, but I Had trouble finding the thread.

After being delayed many, many times, The next step I am going to take is to begin mounting the body so I can allign the trunk and whatnot. I need to build some sort of skeleton frame to hold the body in position, as it is much wider than the original car.

I'm thinking the best way to do this is to build the frame, fiberglass it direclty to the body, and then bolt the frame(which is now attached to the fiberglass body) to the frame of the car. Has anyone built there car in this way? How did it work out?
Thanks,
Ari
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by 1043298000 » Logged
GodAlex
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2002, 01:11:54 AM »

I've done something a bit similar on the F-40.  A square box tubing frame is welded together, and perpendicular mounts welded to the frame. Then glassed to the rear bumper.  Then bolted to the ears I welded to the metal bumper support.  Front was the same except I have a single bolt monted in each attachment point so the nose can clam shell open in front.  Side pieces were glassed to metal supports welded under the door sills.  And I welded box tubing out from the front just before the door to recieve the front part of the side pieces.  Same for the rear near the opening of the hatch.  these pieces have alignment pins that come throught the glass.  (For the rear hatch and front hatches to align when they close)
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by 1043298000 » Logged
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« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2002, 01:11:54 AM »

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AdminAri
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« Reply #2 on: October 05, 2002, 04:09:02 AM »

have any pics?
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Filip
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« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2002, 08:03:58 AM »

I can't speak from experience but:

You should never body the body directly to the chassis without allowing for some flex. Your chassis will flex while you drive, and if the body is glassed in, how will it flex with it? Eventually you might develop spider cracks.

You can build the subframe and bolt it to the car. But as for the connection between the subframe and fiberglass, I think you have at least 2 options:

Some people have glassed in bolts (head in the glass), and then bolt it to the frame with a urathane spacer in between. Ideally you will want to put all of your bolts in compression where they are strongest, and not in shear where they are weaker. I suppose this cannot be avoided on the skirts or something like that.

Another option is to make plates on your subframe for your fiberglass to attach to. Then you can use a spray on urathane (3M Window Weld #051135-08609 or 3M #8463 foam - you need a gun for this one) to coat the plate. It will take several days to harder but it will be strong and flexible enough to support your body. Here's a guy that made motor mounts with the stuff:
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

Some people have also suggested mounting the body in pieces, like the original car. This is a project in itself, since you need to fiberglass small lips for the panels to fit on top of each other. I would think it is the right way to go, especially in the case someone rams into you, but again, it is a lot of work.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by 1043298000 » Logged
DKOV
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« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2002, 08:26:16 AM »

Quote

Some people have also suggested mounting the body in pieces, like the original car. This is a project in itself, since you need to fiberglass small lips for the panels to fit on top of each other. I would think it is the right way to go, especially in the case someone rams into you, but again, it is a lot of work.


The Mirage 355 comes this way...  Bolting everything on is pretty straight forward with no siginificant fears of chasis stress damaging the parts.  I agree, separate panels relieves this situation considerably.

Using Poly sounds like a fine idea too.

Looking at my Losus Esprit Turbo, which is a full fiberglass and FRP/Poly design...  The main body mounts on the chassis are bolted down with a giant rubber donnut sandwitched between the body and the chassis mounting plates.  The other mounting points, such as the front corners of the front air dam and rear bumpers, are connected to other portings of the body with rods.  Where two fiberglass or FRP panels are bolted to one another, they use long strips of flat steel on the insides of both panles the the bolts run through them.  Plate, upper bumper, lower bumper, plate.  Presumably to spread the stresses out and not pull through or crack the fiberglass.  Still, other portions of the car, such as the rockers and the front A-arms are pop-riveted in place, then glassed over and painted.

I'll be using alot of these techniques when installing my body  Smiley

Best of luck all!

DKOV -
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by 1043298000 » Logged
paulino7777
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« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2002, 01:35:26 PM »

Im sorting of doing the same thing, and Im using a method I learned from www.paradigmmfg.com. He uses a bracket welded on to his body with rubber grommets in between washers to allow for vibration and movement. He built a kit car
from scratch for under 10,000 and it looks good. He has a pamplet for 16.00 dollars that I bought, and I highly recommend because the info is great. Hope this helps!
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GodAlex
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« Reply #6 on: October 09, 2002, 08:49:08 PM »

IF I can get into the coral this week, i'll try and post pics, Ari.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 05:00:00 PM by 1043298000 » Logged
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